How To Tell If Silver Is Real

1) Look at the sale price of the item. If it is markedly less than the current price-per-ounce of silver, it is almost certainly not solid silver (why would anyone sell real silver at less than the spot price when they can immediately sell it for a price very close to the spot price to a scrap silver buyer?) The spot price of silver is a global valuation - so don't think for one minute that a seller in China has no idea of the real price of silver and that you are getting some killer deal.

2) Look at the quality of the stamping. Although antique silver bars were hand-stamped and may have a rough appearance, anything that is "new" silver from a major organization will typically be manufactured to a very high quality - with mirrored / frosted finish and crisp, accurate lettering.

3) Anything stated to be Tibetan Silver, German Silver, Chinese Silver or Mexican Silver is almost certainly not silver. These names are nicknames for products that are made with base metal. These types of bar (see left), often claimed to be "antique Chinese silver" or something like that, are for sale all over the internet and often feature attractive cultural designs and motifs. They may even have blacking added to the fine detail of the image, to give the appearance of hand-cleaned silver! However, if it is described as Chinese silver etc, and for sale below the silver spot price, you can be confident that it is not silver.

Note that there is also much fake "German WWII bullion" visible online.

4) Look for marks identifying the silver as silver plate. If you see the markings RSP, ("Rolled silver Plate"), then it is silver plate. Also if you see anything with "100 Mils", "100 Mills" ot "5 Microns" on it, on either the item or the sales description, this is a description of the plating and means that the item is plated or clad to that depth. The core is either copper, brass or some other cheap metal.

5) Similarly, if you see the words "Silver Clad", "Layered Silver" or (obviously) "Silver Plated" in the description or on the item, then the item is not solid silver. Beware of the confusing mark "KP" - for example 14KP - it can mean either "14 Karat plated" or "14 Karat Plumb" (which means "14 Karat exactly). In all cases, look closely at the description for additional wording that reveals more.

On the other hand, millesimal fineness marks (a number such as 999 or 0.999) are marks meaning that the item is indicated to be high quality silver. The wording "100 mills 999 silver" means the item is only plated with 999 silver.

100 Mills Silver Bar
Designed to resemble a pure silver bar, but the
wording 100 mills (required for legality) means
that it is only clad with a thin layer of
999 silver. A nice paperweight, but as a bullion
item - essentially worthless. Unsurprisingly,
this one is for sale at $8.99 with free shipping.
On the reverse, amusingly, it says "In Clad We Trust".

6) If silver plating is of high quality it can be difficult to tell, visually, from solid silver. Polishing the item with a soft cloth, if the surface metal is silver, it will leave a black stain of silver oxide. On used items, look for areas where silver plate may have worn off, such as prominent edges.

7) Run a magnet over the silver. If the item contains iron, it will be strongly attracted to the magnet, whereas pure silver and many other metals will not. However, a silver plated bar might be copper underneath - so while this test may be useful in sifting out some fakes, "just because it passes the magnet test, doesn't mean it is pure silver".

8) The chime test (this also works for silver coins). Silver objects have a high, clear bell-like tone when struck, in comparison to that of other metals. If the silver item is balanced or suspended and then struck (for example with a pencil) - pure silver rings like a bell with a high frequency that resonates for a longer time. If it gives a dull thud, it is some base alloy -- even if it has a plating of silver over it. Try flipping a silver coin and comparing the tone while the coin is spinning through the air to that of a non-silver coin.

9) In general there are more small bars, such as 1oz bars, that are fakes 'dressed up" to look like the real thing. However, there have been instances of fakery of larger bars. These look like real bars of major manufacturers on the outside, and may have been very well made - but have been found to have been hollowed / cored out and filled with some base metal, such as lead. One web site has much info and pictures of these bars, which when cut in half reveal their contents. http://about.ag/LeadFilled100OunceBars.htm The good news is that it has been reported that these bars have been removed from circulation - presumably meaning that the large organizations have means to test them.

In general, larger bars will come with a certificate and a guarantee of authenticity - and so the ultimate advice is to buy silver bullion from a reputable bullion dealer, who will stand by their product. If you have silver and are unsure of its authenticity, the best option is to take it to a qualified expert such as a silversmith, jeweler or antiques expert.

Silver Art Bars - References:

[1] http://www.sunshinemint.com/CompanyProfile.htm
[2] http://www.lib.uidaho.edu/special-collections/Manuscripts/dmginv/mg275.htm
[3] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunshine_Mine
[4] http://www.sunshinerefinery.com/s/About.asp
[5] http://www.sunshinemint.com/Bullion.htm
[6] http://www.apmex.com/Category/1405/.aspx
[7] http://www.cmi-gold-silver.com/100-oz-silver-bars.html

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